Interview with
Award-Winning Chef,
Multiple Guinness Record Holder,
and Thai Cuisine Culinary Ambassador,
Jet Tila
Listen Now
Jet Tila Interview Notes
In this episode of Eat My Globe, our host, Simon Majumdar, will be interviewing Chef Jet Tila, a passionate chef of all things Thai cuisine. They will be talking about the origins of Thai food in Thailand as well as the popularity of Thai food throughout the world, where it now ranks as one of the favorite meals of “Dine-In” or “Take Out” cuisines. Chef Jet – who is an Ambassador of Thai Food, a title given to him by the Royal Thai Consulate in Los Angeles – is the perfect person to talk about the history of Thai cuisine. It is a conversation that might leave you hungry. Be warned.
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TRANSCRIPT
EAT MY GLOBE:
INTERVIEW WITH JET TILA
INTRO MUSIC
Simon Majumdar (“SM”):
Hello everybody. I'm Simon Majumdar, welcome to Eat My Globe, a podcast about things you didn't know you didn't know about food. And what a treat we have for you today. One of my closest friends from the Food Network, one of the nicest guys on the planet, someone who I have known for well over a decade, which worries me a lot. One of the greatest ambassadors for Thai cuisine one could ever encounter. Ladies and gentlemen, of course, I'm talking about the one and only Mr. Jet Tila.
Jet Tila (“JT”):
Simon.
SM:
Jet, how are you?
JT:
I'm good my brother, I'm really good. It's nice to be on this. Huge congratulations, I listen to you regularly and what a cool thing to be here with you.
SM:
Well, fantastic. Before we move on, Jet, would you mind telling us and the audience what you're working on right now? TV shows that you can tell us about, new books, your fantastic work with Ali, who is a great baker, and anything you'd like to tell us.
JT:
You know, the Tila universe is, what we've dubbed. . .
SM:
[Laughter]
JT:
. . .is quite busy, you know, it's. . . It comprises of a few things. So the restaurant projects are great. So we are. . . I am the co-owner of a chain called Pei Wei.
SM:
Yep.
JT:
We're a hundred and sixty restaurants around the country. So, you know, check out Pei Wei. We also have a new concept that we're launching called Dragon Tiger Noodles in Las Vegas. It's kind of a choose your own adventure for noodles for broths, etc. Again, that's Dragon Tiger specifically in Las Vegas now, but we also have one in Denver. So that's the. . .
On the TV front. You know, right now we're depending on when you're listening, Tournament of Champions. Season five is either happening or has happened.
Best Bite in Town, which is a newer show from Guy.
We've also have Wild Card Kitchen, which kind of, you know, gamifies, you know. Imagine poker meets cooking. . .
SM:
[Laughter]
JT:
. . . and a bunch of your favorite Food Network stars after dark.
And, and so those are the three primary shows, obviously, you and I are all over the universe, the Food Network. And then on the book side, our latest cookbook, 101 Thai Dishes You Need to Cook Before You Die, still doing quite well. And I'm teasing, you know what, Simon, the publishers are asking me to do a Chinese book. So, so we'll see.
SM:
Oooh.
JT:
I mean that, that's the general goings on without putting everyone to sleep.
SM:
[Laughter]
Well, I as everyone knows you and I are both on Tournament of Champions which may or may not be over. I think it'll be over by the time we watch this, but we won't mention anything. . .
JT:
Nope, no spoilers.
SM:
. . .but I love working on that as a commentator too. That's one of the pleasures of my life. Now, let's talk about your Thai food and what's happening there. Jet, please tell me about your elevation to the ambassador for the Royal Thai Consulate General in Los Angeles. I mean, was there some more celebratory role or did you have any duties? Do you have any duties?
JT:
You know, I, you know what, what I'll, I'll tell everyone first. I don't have diplomatic immunity.
SM:
[Laughter]
JT:
I'll start with that one. Um, so I'm still beholden to all the laws of the land here. Um, it's about 50, 50 Simon, a few years ago, you know, the Consul General and I were having a conversation, you know, Thai food is the fourth most enjoyed ethnic food almost in the world. We're definitely not that high in ranking of population, but we are in popularity of cuisine and it's a really. . . And it's due to a concerted effort by the government. So we, I was asking the Consul that, you know, to give someone a recognition, uh, that speaks for Thai chefs in America and not really expecting that would be me, but the Consul says, well, guess what kiddo it's going to be you.
SM:
[Laughter]
JT:
And I was like, darn it. Uh, I walked into that one. So some of my roles are basically to work with what we call Team Thailand. You know, the Thai government locally is comprised of Thai Tourism Authority, the, you know, we've got Thai Chamber of Commerce, we have Thai Trade Association. So I do have some specific roles within the government to recommend. . . to do reports on certain products to help restaurateurs, you know, you know, continue to, you know, create campaigns. There are national and international campaigns that we have. And, you know, my non-official role is to, you know, be on TV and in cookbooks and on the radio and waving the flag of delicious Thai food.
SM:
Which is incredible and we'll talk about that later because we're going to talk about the areas of Thailand which I've been to all and they're just. . .
JT:
Mm-hmm.
SM:
. . . really, really different but incredibly exciting as they are. But before we go on to that, first of all, and I forgot to put the questions in here, you've got to tell us about your, is it five?
JT:
[Laughter]
SM:
Guinness Book of Records you've got and I just needed to ask you that which I forgot to do but I wanted to do.
[Laughter]
JT:
Yo, of course. You know, over the last 20 years, you know, in my work with different organizations, you know, I've broken, you know, five, it's actually technically six world records. I'll just say them really quickly.
SM:
Yeah.
JT:
I've broken stir-fried twice, once at a thousand pounds, the second time at four thousand pounds.
SM:
Wow.
JT:
I've got the world's largest, longest granola bar. . .
SM:
[Laughter]
JT:
. . .at four hundred and twenty feet. I've got a seafood stew at about four thousand or six thousand pounds.
SM:
Oh.
JT:
I've got a I've got a sushi roll at 500 or 600 feet. I've actually forgotten the technicalities now. And then a, believe it or not, a fruit salad at 40,000 pounds.
SM:
Oh.
JT:
And then your natural question is why and how.
SM:
Yes.
[Laughter]
JT:
Over the years, I've worked for some phenomenal food institutions and companies. And, you know, a lot of them had to do with college and university food service.
JT:
So, you know, with University of Massachusetts Amherst and Compass Group, you know, we created these really great events around universities and, you know, every pound of food was eaten immediately and there was no waste. So, you know, they were just fun corporate chef marketing events.
SM:
Oh, those are really fun though. While we're talking about this, would you mind telling us about your parents? And, actually, I don’t know. Do you have any siblings?
JT:
Oh yeah, I'll start there. I have a brother.
SM:
Okay.
JT:
He's younger than I am and he's a. . . he proudly serves on in the Los Angeles Police Department.
SM:
Oh wow.
JT:
So he's, yeah, law enforcement is if I wasn't chefing, I probably would have joined the military or law enforcement. So we have job envy, we envy each other's job. My parents emigrated from Thailand, you know, the same year but separately, they did not know each other. So. . .
SM:
Oh, right.
JT:
The first group of Thai people came to the States in 1966, by the way.
SM:
Wow.
JT:
It's officially recognized that, you know, Thailand was, you know, helping the US with forward operating bases and during the Vietnam War.
SM:
Yes, yes.
JT:
And part of that was, you know, getting visas to, for young Thai people to come over. And we call it the first wave or the first gen of Thai people and they landed here in the east of Los Angeles in the east of Hollywood actually in the Silver Lake area. And there's a fantastic book out there by a Thai scholar that kind of will give you the longer form. I'm going to give you the more fun, shorter, you know, points.
SM:
[Laughter]
JT:
So, ‘66, the first group of Thais came, but my parents were both kind of double immigrants, both of their. . . . Every grandparent I have, Simon, was born in China. So. . . .
SM:
They're in Hainan, aren't they?
JT:
They are specifically Hainanese and they. . .
SM:
Yeah.
JT:
. . . didn't know each other, believe it or not. And Hainan's not a big place. So I'm pure blood Hainanese Chinese.
SM:
Wow, that's fantastic. And I love that. . . . I've been to that area of China.
JT:
Mm-hmm.
SM:
Yeah, when I've been traveling around China. And apart from the fact the food there is just sensational, which it is.
JT:
Absolutely.
SM:
And so I was going to ask you about that because you must have, although you were born here, you must have this kind of joy of bringing Chinese food together with Thai food. And that's why I guess you've, you know, written some of your books.
JT:
Yeah, no, you're absolutely right. I identify as a Chinese kid in Thai culture. I mean, that's what I do because my, my first influence. . . my first cooking influence was my maternal grandmother, and she was my primary caregiver. So imagine thousands of days from babyhood to middle school, her being my, you know, everything and her rituals every day was we take the bus to Chinatown, Los Angeles from East LA. We would shop, we would eat dim sum, eat some pastry. She'd play mahjong and then we'd take the bus home and we'd make dinner. And so those were two meal periods in my most formative years with my Chinese grandmother. And you know, I was somewhat of an ADD kid and she knew to harness kind of my, my, my focus, she stuck me next to her in the kitchen. And I had my 10,000 hours of cooking probably by the time I was 12. I mean if we really start to deep dive.
SM:
Wow.
JT:
So, so, yeah man, my love for my food starts with Chinese cuisine and then growing up in our restaurants. We had seven restaurants by the ’90s, from the ‘70s to the ‘90s. . .
SM:
Wow.
JT:
. . . and I worked every single position from you know cleaning bathrooms to washing dishes to prep cook to wok cook and then I would do the front house. I was a bus boy and then a food runner and the server and a manager. So I did all. I've worked every restaurant position by the time I was 16.
SM:
Wow. Wow. That's I mean, I didn't know this about you. . .
JT:
Right.
SM:
. . . and I've known you for a long time, but wow. So tell me about what you see the difference is because I know when we eat American Chinese it's like if we eat British Chinese it's very different but the American Thai probably not quite as different yet.
JT:
You know, I would say, you know, I think, you know, I, I consider you a scholar. I know so many food scholars, you know, Thompson and I would say even Andy Ricker. . .
SM:
Yeah, yeah.
JT:
. . . and others. And, you know, I would say I am an expert mainly in American Thai cuisine and the evolution of it from the ‘60s to present day. And although the modern food is very, very close to I would say that you know, authentic, which is a kind of a slippery word.
SM:
Yes it is.
JT:
I've seen the evolution of it from our first restaurant in 1978 until today. And, you know, I think we have tremendously delicious and authentic Thai food here in Los Angeles, regionally, northern, southern, northeastern, Bangkok cuisine. So, you know, most people would say, well, it's sugar. It's, you know, the Thai food is so sweet here. I would say Thai food in Thailand has evolved to be just as sweet here because sweet is such an important component in our cuisine. We have hot, sour, salty, sweet, savory.
SM:
Yeah.
JT:
But you can't have food if it's not even a bit sweet. So yeah, and it's really fun to see Americans or, you know, global people diving now into more ethnic, regional specific Thai food.
SM:
Well, we are beginning to see that and I know I go to, you know, what's the other place I really like it, Jitlada.
JT:
Yeah, Jitlada.
SM:
Which I, which, and that has, which area is that from? That's from?
JT:
She's Southern. So a fun fact for your listeners, Jitlada opened about 25 years ago.
SM:
Yeah.
JT:
The original owner was from Northern Thailand.
SM:
Oh.
JT:
And then when Jazz and Tui and their family acquired it probably 15, 20 years ago, they're from Southern Thailand. So the trivia question is, yes, Jitlada is a Southern restaurant, but it started as a Northern restaurant.
SM:
Oh, I, and again, I didn't know that because well, I wasn't here.
JT:
Right, right.
SM:
I was eating in. . . but we had spectacular Thai places in in England because. . .
JT:
Mmm.
SM:
. . .again, they came from the various different regions. And let's talk about those regions because. . .
JT:
Yeah.
SM:
. . . we're going to talk about the. . . the kind of Thai experience over here in a moment, but let's talk about some of those that really favorite is the wrong word, I guess, but I have got that down here.
JT:
Yeah.
SM:
Because people may not know where each dish comes from and they have great historical backgrounds in them.
JT:
[Laughter]
SM:
They really do. So I've got them down this way. So Northern Thailand, which is an area that I love, you know, this has got Khao Soi and I'm. . .
JT:
Mm-hmm.
SM:
Forgive my pronunciation because yours is gonna be very good and mine is probably gonna be very, very bad, I'm sure. But Northern Thailand has got Khao Soi, it's got Krabong, is that right?
JT:
Mm-hmm, Krabong. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
SM:
And so tell me about the Northern. . .
JT:
Yeah.
SM:
. . . and then we'll move on.
JT:
Sure. Northern Thailand, I think you have to understand Thailand geographically.
SM:
Yeah.
JT:
And it's further from the equator. It's very high up in terms of elevation. So we're talking about cooler temperatures, which means more hardwood forests. And we're talking about more protein, animal protein, you know, everything from ox to chickens to pig. So we're also talking about the Golden Triangle, you know, influence of, you know, Cambodia. . .
SM:
Yep.
JT:
. . .Vietnam. You know, so, so we're getting very. . . . All spice. It's spicy for sure, but it's definitely you're going to feel a lot of more Indian and Cambodian and Karen, you know, all the Hill tribes . . .
SM:
Yes.
JT:
. . .influence in Vietnam influence. So, you know, I would say savory, very meat forward, all sticky rice, and then what we call chili dips we take, you know, before. . . . Thailand, we always eat with our hands and before Rama the fourth, you're at Rama five, sorry, who studied in England. . .
SM:
Yeah, yeah.
JT:
. . . or had an English nanny, as we all know, we always eat with our hands and our primary starch to eat with our hands in the north is sticky rice. So you would take sticky rice as your primary starch and then you grab a little bit of chili dip or a little bit of meat or a little bit of curry. And that's how you eat Northern Thai food.
SM:
Oh, and now I'm getting incredibly hungry.
JT:
Me too. Me too. We need to go to Spicy Thai Barbecue and eat some northern food soon.
SM:
Oh gosh, and tell me about the dishes that. . . I mentioned Khao Soi has just one that you. . . .
JT:
Yeah, Khao Soi, we should talk about Khao Soi because I think it's probably the most popular northern dish right now.
SM:
Yeah.
JT:
Khao is the Thai word for rice. Soi actually means to, to, to cut into strips. So they're rice noodles, and then made into served with a very rich curry broth. And that curry broth can either be beef based or chicken based. . .
SM:
Oh.
JT:
. . . primarily. And then you have those big warming Indian spices.
JT:
But you also have the addition of all the herbs like galanga and Thai lime leaves. So I mean, I think Thai curry is the kind of that, that fusion between Indian spices, but, but, you know, Southeast Asian herbs. And then, you know, North, the North is also known for their, their use of charcuterie, believe it or not.
SM:
Oh.
JT:
You know, yeah, sausage making because, you know, we have so much protein and the way to preserve protein was to grind all your meats and fats with lemongrass, chilies and garlic, basically a curry base. You stuffed them into cases and then you would actually cure them and smoke them. So it's a very, you know, again, meat, it’s a very meat barbecue charcuterie based, it's like the Germany of Thailand, I would say.
SM:
[Laugher]
That's fantastic. Oh, you've got you've got me so hungry right now.
JT:
[Laughter]
SM:
Tell me about kind of the northeastern part of Thailand.
JT:
Yeah.
SM:
That's where I looked next. Tell me about the dishes there because again, those are dishes that I love, love, love when I'm here.
JT:
Yeah, the region we call the region in Thai, Issan.
SM:
Yep.
JT:
It's Eastern, Northeastern and Issan food is heavily, heavily influenced by Laos. A lot of, a lot of our cuisine is, is, is, you know, like Papaya Salad. Let's just start there. And I, most, most Lao, Laotian people would say Thai people stole Papaya Salad from, from. . .
SM:
I've been to Laos and they really do say that you have stolen it.
[Laughter]
JT:
They really do say that. They're not kidding and I give credit. So now we're talking about Papaya Salad. We're talking about more fermentation. I would say I would really categorize the Northeast with more of the sour flavors. If the North was more umami, the Northeast would be more sour and spicy. So now we have pickling. . .
SM:
Oh.
JT:
. . . and now we have fermentation.
JT:
We're still in sticky rice mode. We still have a decent amount of meat. But now we talk about yum, the concept of yum. Y U M, it means hot. It's that sour, sweet, spicy salads. And that is very Northeastern. A little bit of sticky rice, a lot of vegetables that have been pickled, and a little bit of protein.
SM:
I love that because, you know, I love the Northern Thailand, but I really do love the North, Northeastern Thailand. It's just, the Issan restaurants are things that I've encountered in LA, but in England, that's what we have primarily in England.
JT:
Right.
SM:
And so whenever I have that, it's been really. . . .
JT:
And since I'm based in LA, maybe we'll just I'll give you one restaurant or two restaurants. So northern, northern restaurant, go to Spicy Thai Barbecue, check out Spicy Thai Barbecue.
SM:
Okay.
JT:
Northeastern go to Issan Station. It's. . . I think they might have been, you know, nominated for a Beard or something.
SM:
Oh wow.
JT:
But Issan Station, and then we'll go to the next region. I'll give you some restaurants that aren't on all the list. Some things to check out, you know.
SM:
That would be phenomenal.
JTYeah.
SM:
And okay, let's talk about something that's kind of not really an area, but it's. . .
JT:
Yeah.
SM:
. . . the Royal Thai cuisine, because that's something again, that whenever I go to Bangkok and I go to Royal Thai restaurants, those are really, again, for me, who doesn't know it as well as you do, obviously, I, I get to try these dishes and they're phenomenal. Again, they're so special.
JT:
Yeah, so, you know, we have, we have, obviously Thailand is probably one of the few Southeast Asian kingdoms that have never been colonized. . .
SM:
Yeah.
JT:
. . . or never been, you know, we've traded wars and borders with Burma for many, many years. But we have this very kind of ornate, naturally organic court food. And, you know, we're talking about very, you know, many, many, many small dishes enjoyed, you know, with, with carving with fruit carving and vegetable carving. That's where that comes from basically. So you see a lot of Thai ornate fruit carving.
SM:
Yes.
JT:
And again, in Thailand before Rama the fifth, we used our hands. So again, everything's based on rice, we're a rice-based diet. But because we have Chinese and Indian influence, we do eat noodles. So Mee Krob, you know. . .
SM:
Oh, yeah.
JT:
. . . it, you know, goes back to kind of this court ornate food, um. . .
SM:
That's one of my absolute favorites.
JT:
a lot of the curries. . . . Me too, by the way. Not a lot of people make it anymore, Simon. Yeah it's a. . . .
SM:
I probably couldn't make it but I haven't seen it much in LA.